Utterly, utterly, utterly black, with a very narrow crimson rim; it is hard to imagine a wine with more colour saturation than this. And then comes the nose: deep, tightly-wound, mineral and stock-like notes hint at the depth and power that the 2010 Denis will eventually unleash – the dragon may be dozing in its cave at the moment but everything about it suggests that treating it with the utmost respect is definitely the wisest course. Intense black plum and almost charred blackcurrants show on the bouquet together with spice and smoke.
Then on the palate there’s an intensity that almost hurts – it’s engaging but forbidding at the same time. That minerality and smokiness lend a pungent edge to the ripe black fruit. And it’s got excellent freshness and depth, and real texture; and great balance and restraint (all things are relative). But it’s that brooding quality that takes it to the next level and gives the Denis real fascination.
Demands to be taken very seriously with some very serious venison or well-hung roast pheasant. 15.0% alc/vol
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